Masashi Fujiwara
Born in Matsusaka City, Mie Prefecture
Third generation of Tsukiyama Yoshitaka cutlery store
President of JaHTA ( Japan Houchou Togi Association )
He is a professional sharpener, specializing in various edged tools and continually revisits traditional techniques associated with these tools, seeking innovation and mastery from fresh perspectives.
Collaborating closely with top chefs, he explores the potential of kitchen knives, emphasizing their role in accentuating the intrinsic flavor and texture of ingredients beyond just cutting.
Using a metallurgical microscope, he is conducting precise experiments to determine how the shape of the cutting edge affects the “flavor” of the food, by capturing in detail objective data on the minute changes in the shape of the blade resulting from different sharpening methods, in pursuit of a scientific definition of true “sharpness”.
He is also dedicated to developing whetstones that achieve his vision of perfect sharpness. The “Kenshou Series” whetstones, borne from extensive collaboration with experts, have garnered immense recognition in the industry.
This technical approach and passionate attitude have deeply impressed people around him, and he has earned the trust of many customers and top-class chefs.
The Pursuit of True Sharpness
In Japanese, the term “切れ味” (kireaji) is composed of two words: “切る” (kiru – to cut) and “味” (aji – taste). While this term is often used to mean “sharpness” or “cuts well,” in his writings, he consistently defines “kireaji” (good sharpness) and “yoku kireru” (cuts well) as two distinct terms. The former, which includes the character “味” (taste), is a word aimed at maximizing the deliciousness of ingredients. On the other hand, “yoku kireru” (cuts well) is defined as a term that focuses solely on whether the person using the knife feels it cuts easily.
Knives are tools used by humans to prepare ingredients, and thus are often judged by how comfortably they can be used. However, he places particular importance on whether a knife is good from the perspective of the ingredients themselves, aiming to cook them deliciously. With this in mind, he collaborates with top chefs daily, emphasizing the knife’s ability to enhance the taste of the ingredients, rather than just its ease of use for the handler.
World’s Most Meticulous Sharpening
His dedication to sharpening is unparalleled, even compared to other artisans I, the author (a knife enthusiast), have encountered. What particularly surprised me was that in his younger years, he invested an amount equivalent to several luxury cars into the research and experimentation of whetstones and sharpening. He was so engrossed in sharpening that he sacrificed sleep, to the point of collapsing from exhaustion. People around him often thought he was crazy. However, his extreme dedication resonated with top chefs who share the same level of passion in the culinary world.
Michelin-starred chefs and chefs from highly sought-after restaurants have signed annual contracts with him, relying on his expertise for knife sharpening and maintenance. For instance, a renowned French chef never uses the same knife two days in a row, asking for it to be resharpened after each use. He owns five or six sets of the same knives to alternate between them. Additionally, since the eight to ten courses in a meal use different ingredients, he adjusts the knives with various whetstones to ensure they are always in the best condition to bring out the flavors of each ingredient.
No other sharpening artisan exhibits such an intense level of commitment. Currently, he is test-marketing knives made from a new steel material, which he spent over four years developing. He is focusing on full-scale production and collaborative development with partners who share his meticulous standards. He already has more orders than he can handle, and knife production can’t keep up with demand. If his current project succeeds, it will revolutionize the perception of knives among many top chefs. It is expected that orders will come in from around the world for knives that can cut ingredients in the most optimal way. I am confident that in the near future, his brand will become a leading knife brand representing Japan. Those interested should keep an eye on his progress.